The Unwritten Rules of Argentine Life
The cultural quirks, social norms, and daily realities that nobody tells you about. Learn from my embarrassing mistakes so you don't have to make them.
Time & Schedules
Why nothing starts on time (and why that's okay)
The 'Argentine Hour'
If someone says 'llego en 20 minutos' (I'll be there in 20 minutes), they mean 45 minutes. If they say 'ahora' (now), they mean sometime today. This isn't rudeness—it's just how time works here.
I learned this the hard way: I learned this the hard way when I showed up 'on time' for a party at 9 PM. The hosts were still in their pajamas. The actual party started around 11. I sat on their couch for two hours pretending I wasn't incredibly awkward.
The 10 PM Dinner Reality
Restaurants don't even get busy until 9:30 PM. Most Argentines eat dinner between 9 PM and 11 PM. If you're hungry at 6 PM, you're on your own—kitchens are often closed.
I learned this the hard way: My first week, I tried to get dinner at 7 PM. The waiter looked at me like I'd asked for breakfast at midnight. He politely explained they were 'between services.' I ate empanadas from a kiosk and went to bed hungry.
Siesta Is Real
From roughly 1 PM to 4 PM, many businesses close. Banks, government offices, and small shops shut down. Don't plan to get anything administrative done during these hours.
I learned this the hard way: I once stood outside a bank for 30 minutes at 2 PM, checking my watch and getting increasingly frustrated, before a kind old lady told me they were closed for siesta. I felt like the most obvious tourist in the city.
Sunday Family Day
Sundays are sacred family time. Many shops close or have limited hours. Parks fill up with multi-generational family gatherings. Asados (BBQs) happen religiously.
I learned this the hard way: I tried to buy a phone charger on a Sunday afternoon. After walking to three closed stores, I finally found a kiosk that charged me triple. Now I plan my Sundays around parks, cafes, and accepting that commerce has stopped.
Social Customs
How to not accidentally offend everyone
The Kiss on the Cheek
One kiss on the right cheek is standard for greetings and goodbyes—regardless of gender. Men shake hands in very formal business settings, but among friends, everyone kisses.
I learned this the hard way: My first Argentine party, I stuck out my hand to shake. The woman looked confused, then laughed and kissed my cheek anyway. I spent the rest of the night overthinking every greeting. Now I default to the kiss—it's actually quite lovely once you get used to it.
Mate Etiquette
Mate is a shared drink passed in a circle. The cebador (server) fills it, drinks the first one (it's always bitter), then refills and passes. You drink the full gourd, then pass it back—don't say 'gracias' unless you want to stop drinking.
I learned this the hard way: I said 'thank you' after my first sip because I'm polite. The group went quiet. Someone explained that 'gracias' means 'I'm done, don't give me more.' I had to awkwardly ask to rejoin the mate circle. The shame still haunts me.
Asado Rules
The asador (grill master) is in charge. You don't touch the meat, you don't flip the meat, you don't even suggest when it might be done. Bring wine or a side dish, but never try to help with the grill unless asked.
I learned this the hard way: At my first asado, I tried to 'help' by checking the meat. The host gently but firmly moved me away from the grill. Later, a friend explained that questioning the asador is like telling someone's grandmother her pasta sauce needs more salt. Just don't.
Personal Space (Or Lack Thereof)
Argentines stand close when talking. They touch your arm or shoulder while speaking. They'll lean in. This isn't flirting or aggression—it's just cultural proximity.
I learned this the hard way: I kept backing away from people during conversations, unconsciously seeking my American personal bubble. They kept stepping closer. I thought I was being hit on repeatedly. Turns out, we just have different definitions of 'personal space.'
Greeting Everyone Individually
When arriving at a gathering, you greet and kiss everyone individually. Same when leaving. You don't just wave at the room—you go around to each person.
I learned this the hard way: I used to try the American 'hey everyone!' wave when arriving at parties. People looked confused. Now I budget an extra 10 minutes for arrivals and departures just for the greeting circuit. It's actually really nice once you accept it.
Communication Style
Decoding what people actually mean
'Yes' Means 'Maybe'
If an Argentine says 'sí, sí, vamos a hacer eso' (yes, yes, let's do that), they might mean 'possibly, if everything works out, but don't count on it.' Direct refusals are considered rude.
I learned this the hard way: A contractor told me 'sí, sí' to every request during a renovation. I thought everything was confirmed. Two weeks later, half the things hadn't happened. I learned to ask '¿Cuándo exactamente?' (When exactly?) and get specific dates.
'Maybe' Means 'No'
If someone says 'capaz' (maybe), 'veremos' (we'll see), or 'a ver' (let's see), they're almost certainly saying no in a polite way. Don't push—it won't change the answer.
I learned this the hard way: I spent weeks following up on a 'maybe' business partnership. Every email got a 'we're considering it' response. Eventually, a friend told me I'd been rejected weeks ago. I just hadn't understood the code.
The Porteño Attitude
Porteños (Buenos Aires locals) have a reputation for being a bit arrogant, sarcastic, and intellectually competitive. They'll debate anything, love wordplay, and take pride in their quick wit.
I learned this the hard way: I got into a 'debate' about pizza at a dinner party. It started friendly, then got surprisingly intense. People were citing philosophers about cheese distribution. I realized this was sport, not argument. Now I enjoy the intellectual sparring.
Sarcasm and Humor
Argentine humor is dry, self-deprecating, and often dark. They joke about their economic crises, their politicians, their own failures. If you're not sure if they're joking, they probably are.
I learned this the hard way: Someone made a joke about inflation that I thought was a genuine complaint. I started offering sympathetic advice about dollar savings. The whole table laughed at me. 'No, no, we're laughing at ourselves,' they explained. 'We have to laugh or we'd cry.'
Money & Tipping
How to handle cash, tips, and awkward money moments
Tipping Culture
10% at restaurants is standard. It's not required everywhere—coffee shops, bars, and casual places often don't expect it. Some places include 'cubiertos' (cover charge) instead.
I learned this the hard way: I overtipped 20% at a cafe my first month, thinking I was being generous. The waiter looked confused and tried to give me change back. Now I keep it simple: 10% at restaurants, round up at cafes, nothing if there's a service charge.
Propina vs Service Charge
Check your bill. 'Servicio' or 'cubiertos' means a service charge is already included. 'Propina' is the voluntary tip. Don't double-tip unless the service was exceptional.
I learned this the hard way: I tipped on top of a service charge for months before someone pointed it out. I was basically paying 30% extra every meal. Check your bill carefully—it's usually itemized at the bottom.
Cash Is King
Despite being a modern city, Buenos Aires runs on cash—specifically US dollars. Many landlords prefer cash rent. Some restaurants offer discounts for cash. Credit cards often get you the official rate, which is worse.
I learned this the hard way: I paid my first month's rent with a bank transfer because it seemed safer. My landlord was confused and slightly annoyed. Now I pay in crisp hundred-dollar bills like everyone else. It feels weirdly illicit but it's totally normal.
The 'Vuelto' Issue
Small bills and coins are precious. Shops often round or give candy instead of small change. Breaking large bills can be challenging. Always carry small denominations.
I learned this the hard way: I tried to pay for a 500-peso item with a 10,000-peso bill. The cashier looked at me like I'd insulted her mother. 'No tengo vuelto' (I don't have change). Now I hoard small bills like a dragon with gold. I have a special wallet just for coins.
Safety & Street Smarts
Staying safe without being paranoid
Phone in Pocket Rule
Don't walk around with your phone in your hand. Don't check it on the street. Don't even have it visible in your back pocket. Phone snatching is the most common crime against tourists.
I learned this the hard way: I got my phone stolen in Palermo while texting. One second it was in my hand, the next a guy on a motorcycle had it. I wasn't even being careless—I was just visible. Now my phone stays in my front pocket until I'm inside.
No Flashy Jewelry
Leave the Rolex at home. Don't wear expensive-looking watches, flashy rings, or obvious designer items. Blend in. Argentines dress well but generally understated.
I learned this the hard way: I wore a nice watch my first week. Three different people warned me about it. 'Te van a robar' (They're going to rob you). I bought a cheap Casio and stopped looking like a walking target.
No Dar Papaya
This is the golden rule: don't give papaya (don't make yourself an easy target). It means being aware, not showing off valuables, and not putting yourself in obviously risky situations.
I learned this the hard way: A local friend explained this phrase after I left my laptop bag unattended at a cafe. 'No dar papaya,' he said, shaking his head. It applies to everything—don't flash cash, don't wander drunk at 3 AM with your phone out, don't make it easy.
Neighborhood Awareness
Palermo, Recoleta, Belgrano, and Puerto Madero are generally safe day and night. San Telmo and La Boca require more caution, especially after dark. Always check with locals about current conditions.
I learned this the hard way: I walked through San Telmo alone at night once because 'it's a tourist area, how bad can it be?' Pretty bad, apparently. A group of kids followed me for blocks until I ducked into a restaurant. Now I take Ubers after dark in borderline areas.
Common Scams
Mustard/pigeon poop scams (distracting you while someone robs you), fake taxi overcharges, and the 'dropped money' trick are common. Stay alert in tourist areas.
I learned this the hard way: Someone 'accidentally' squirted mustard on my shoulder in San Telmo. A 'helpful' stranger rushed over to help clean it. I instinctively grabbed my bag and walked away. Later I learned this is a classic distraction technique. Trust your gut.
Food Culture
Eating, drinking, and surviving as a vegetarian
The Meat Obsession
Argentina consumes more beef per capita than almost any country. Asados are social events. Vegetarians exist but are often met with confusion and concern for their health.
I learned this the hard way: I'm vegetarian. When I tell Argentines this, they look at me with genuine worry. 'But... why? Are you sick?' At asados, hosts panic and grill me an entire zucchini. I've learned to just say 'I eat everything' and quietly avoid the meat.
Vegetarian Struggles
Vegetarianism is growing but still niche. Many 'vegetarian' dishes contain meat products. Empanadas will have meat in them unless specified. Always ask.
I learned this the hard way: I ordered 'vegetable empanadas' at a restaurant. Took a bite. Definitely had ham in it. 'Oh, that's just for flavor,' the waiter said when I asked. Now I specify 'sin carne, sin jamón, sin pollo' (no meat, no ham, no chicken) every time.
Coffee Culture
There is no drip coffee. Your options are espresso, cortado (espresso with a splash of milk), or café con leche (coffee with lots of milk). Starbucks exists but locals prefer traditional cafes.
I learned this the hard way: I asked for 'just a regular coffee' at a cafe. The waiter stared at me. '¿Cortado? ¿Con leche?' I didn't know the options. Now I'm a cortado person. It's better than drip anyway. I sit for hours with one cup and nobody rushes me.
Bakeries (Panaderías)
Facturas (pastries) and medialunas (croissants, but sweeter) are breakfast staples. Bakeries are everywhere, cheap, and delicious. Try the dulce de leche-filled ones.
I learned this the hard way: I became a regular at my corner bakery within a week. Now they know my order (two medialunas, one con dulce de leche) and have it ready when they see me coming. It's my favorite part of the morning routine.
Delivery Apps
Rappi and PedidosYa dominate food delivery. You can get almost anything delivered—food, groceries, pharmacy items, even cash in some cases. Delivery is cheap and fast.
I learned this the hard way: I was sick with a fever and realized I had no food. Ordered soup, medicine, and tissues through Rappi. It arrived in 25 minutes. The delivery guy wished me 'que te mejores' (get well). I don't know how I lived without this before.
Quick Reference: Don't Look Like a Tourist
Do This
- • Kiss on the cheek when greeting
- • Carry small bills and coins
- • Keep your phone in your front pocket
- • Say 'buen día' to shopkeepers
- • Accept mate when offered (don't say gracias)
- • Eat dinner after 9 PM
- • Tip 10% at restaurants
- • Compliment the asador at BBQs
Don't Do This
- • Walk with your phone visible
- • Wear flashy jewelry or watches
- • Expect places to open during siesta
- • Stir the mate straw (bombilla)
- • Touch the meat at an asado
- • Ask for drip coffee (it doesn't exist)
- • Take 'yes' at face value
- • Rush through greetings at gatherings
The Real Secret
Here's the thing: you're going to make mistakes. You'll say 'gracias' at the wrong time, show up early to a party, try to pay with a large bill at a small shop. It's fine. Argentines are incredibly forgiving, especially if you show genuine interest in their culture.
The mistakes are part of the experience. The awkward moments become the stories you laugh about later. And once you start getting it right—when you naturally lean in for the cheek kiss, when you pass the mate without thinking, when you sit down to dinner at 10 PM like it's normal—you'll feel like you actually belong here.
That's the magic of Buenos Aires. It challenges you, confuses you, and eventually adopts you. Embrace the chaos. It's worth it.
Ready for More Practical Guides?
Now that you understand the culture, learn about visas, housing, and the practical side of moving.